Motion Science™

Level I * Upper Body * Blocks and Parries

Blocks and Parries are one of the Level 1 basics of Motion Science™ and one of the basics of Kenpo Karate.

Overview

Blocks and parries are defensive maneuvers used to hinder, check, or deflect attacks. They are probably the second most important defense mechanisms available to fighters, behind movement (moving your target away from the incoming weapon by either creating distance or changing angle.

Blocks and parries are similar in that they meet the attacking appendage to prevent the weapon from hitting its target, but they are different in their mechanics and situations in which they are most appropriate.

Blocks meet force with force to stop or partially redirect and attacker’s strike. Typically, blocks meet the incoming appendage (arm or leg) with a force perpendicular or near perpendicular to it, and as such are done close-fisted. Likewise, they typically start from a near depth zone and move to a further out depth zone while crossing from one side of the center line to the other.

Parries, on the other hand, ride the force of the oncoming strike while adding minimal opposing force to move the oncoming strike just enough off course from its intended target, and as such are done open-handed. If starting from a near depth zone, they typically meet the incoming appendage at a further out depth zone and move to a nearer depth zone while crossing the center line, making a triangle. (Alternately, parries can start with the hand already further out in the depth zone and as such would only draw the one line coming in and crossing the center line.)

Note that although blocks are generally defensive maneuvers and strikes offensive ones, remember that blocks can be used as strikes and strikes can be used as blocks.

Also note that as a general rule of thumb, most blocks are done using paths (e.g., the full forearm from the fist to the elbow moves toward the incoming appendage), while parries are done using lines (just the hand moves to the incoming appendage).

Double-Factoring

Both blocks and parries are often done with double-factoring movements. This entails executing one minor block or parry with one hand and (in one fluid movement) picking up that block or parry with the other hand. For blocks, the initial blocking movement is an insurance movement in case the principal blocking hand does not reach its objective in time. For parries, the first movement actually makes contact with the incoming appendage before the second one makes contact and completes the action.

When double-factoring, the second hand typically picks up the movement by coming to the outside of the original hand, thereby providing more flexibility of movement and options for both offensive and defensive purposes.

Related Defensive Maneuvers

Following are other, related defensive maneuvers.

• Checking—Pressing against or pinning an opponent’s joints or weapons to minimize their effective movement as weapons. Alternately, checks can be positional—that is, strategically placed to prevent an effective angle of entry for the opponent.
• Jamming—Blocking or pushing an opponent’s weapon back and against his own joint (e.g., against his own body) to prevent him from effectively using the weapon. Jamming is a specialized case of checking.
• Shielding—Setting up a positional block (typically with both arms) close to one’s own body to prevent an effective angle of entry for the opponent’s strike, but with the expectation that the “shield” will absorb the strike.
• Catching—Meeting an incoming blow with your hand or hands to stop the strike from hitting its target or detaining it once it has.

Types of Blocks

Following are the basic types of blocks.

• Inward—This block crosses from the outside (the same side as the shoulder), moving to the inside, across the center line (hitting roughly at a 45 degree angle to a further out depth zone). We typically define inward blocks as hammering (with the fist starting above the shoulder and moving in a hammering direction across the width and depth zones), rising (with the fist starting in a chambered position and moving across the height, width, and depth zones at the same time), or hinging (with the fist starting in an upward block position already across the center line, approximately where is should end up, and the elbow hinging into position, traveling across the width zone). Inward blocks are used as the minor blocks preceding all other upper-height zone blocks (against strikes to the mid-section or higher) when double-factoring them.
• (Vertical) Outward—This block travels from a low (e.g., chambered) position in a circular motion across the center line at the bottom half of the circle and then back across the center line at the top half of the circle such that the arm finishes the block with the wrist vertically above the elbow, the hand facing in, and the elbow pointing perpendicularly outward from the body. Outward blocks are not powerful blocks and as such are generally used to meet straight incoming strikes (as opposed to hooking or roundhouse strikes).
• Extended Outward—This block travels in the same manner as the vertical outward block except that at the point of contact the forearm extends slightly outward (as opposed to remaining vertically straight up) and the wrist turns such that the palm faces outward at the end point of the block. This is a more powerful block than the vertical outward and as such can be used for hooking or roundhouse strikes.
• Upward—This block is intended to defend against a blow coming from above and moving downward to the head. The fist begins from a chambered position, moves to the center line and starts traveling straight up as an uppercut, but then before hitting the apex of the fist’s height, the elbow moves out and the fist moves forward such that two 45 degree angles are created. The line formed by the wrist and elbow project out into space at a 45 degree angle splitting the height and depth zones, while it also forms a 45 degree angle with respect to the line parallel to the ground. Unlike most other blocks, upward blocks are intended to deflect as well as oppose the incoming strike.
• Downward—This is intended to defend against a kick. It starts with the fist across the center line and higher (closer to the opposing shoulder) and travels downward and back to the natural side of the center line, finishing just at the outside of the leg.
• Push—This is intended to defend against a rising knee or scoop kick. From a chambered position, the hand travels to the center line and then straight down (to below the groin) to meet the rising strike. This block is atypical in that it meets the strike with the hand vs. an arm (traveling along a line vs. a path), and does so with an open hand vs. a closed one.
• Universal—This is a combination of inward and downward blocks executed simultaneously to the same side of the body. This block effectively counters an incoming strike that might hit high or low (such as a roundhouse kick that might come in to the mid-section or to the head or fake to one and hit the other).
• X-Block—This is also another combination block. If done above the head, it is executed as a pair of intersecting upward blocks; alternately, if done below the waist, it is executed as a pair of intersecting downward blocks. The intent is to add extra support and coverage vs. what could be accomplished by a single-handed block.
• Palm Down Inside Downward—This is the minor move preceding the standard downward block. On its own it is also used as a quick block to a kick when there isn’t time for anything else. (It’s not powerful but it’s the fastest movement across the groin area.) It is done when the blocking fist is already in a low position (chambered or lower) and moves in a downward arc across the center line (below the groin) with the fist’s palm facing your body.
• Palm Up Inside Downward—This is similar in movement to the palm down inside downward block but the fist’s palm is facing away from your body. This is used when the original position of the blocking fist is above the chambered position so that the block can gain power from the extra distance traveled. This is more powerful than the palm down inside downward block but requires the extra distance (and hence time) to travel.
• Elbow—Used against a counterpunch or kick to the midsection, this is executed by bringing the elbow straight down (and close to the chest). If the elbow comes down prior to the strike, then this becomes a shield (absorbing the strike), but if the elbow comes down just as the weapon is reaching its depth zone, then it becomes a striking block (perpendicular to the weapon’s movement).
• Strike—If a strike is launched while the opponent’s strike is in mid-trajectory such that your strike first occupies the position in space that the opponent’s strike must travel, then your strike can also act as a block. A striking block deflect s the opponent’s blow by glancing the outside of the opponent’s arm (at the elbow) while moving towards your target.
• Wedge—A wedge block is similar to a striking block, except that it hits the opponent on the inside of his arm (between the elbow and the hand) with your elbow, with your elbow extending out. Since a wedge block requires that the elbow be bent to deflect the incoming weapon, your weapon is generally not as powerful and as such is often finger strikes to the eye.
• Leg—Used against a cut kick or roundhouse kick to the legs, this is executed by lifting the foot off the ground (bending the knee) and moving the leg as it is being lifted perpendicularly in the direction of the incoming kick.
• Knee—This is a subtle block and often more of a check. It is executed against a rising straight or scoop kick toward the groin by bending the front knee (starting from a neutral bow) toward the center line to cut off the direct angle to the target (the groin).

Types of Parries

Following are basic types of parries.

• Low Inside/Inside—Your hand starts from a low position on its natural side of the center line. Your opponent’s weapon comes from the opposite side—across the center line. Your hand travels out and to the center line to meet the incoming weapon at the inside of his appendage (with the inside of your palm) and then rides it back in and across the center line to keep his weapon on the same side of the center line as it began.
• Low Inside/Outside—Your hand starts from a low position on its natural side of the center line. Your opponent’s weapon comes from the same side of the center line. Your hand travels out so the inside of your hand meets the outside of the opponent’s appendage before it hits then center line and then rides it back, forcing it to cross the center line to avoid you.
• Low Outside/Inside—Your hand starts from a low position on the opposite side of the center line (or it initially crosses the center line at the beginning of an upward arc before coming back to the center line to meet the weapon). Your opponent’s weapon comes from the same side of the center line. The outside (back) of your hand moves out to meet the inside of his appendage just as it is coming to the center line and then rides it back to the natural side of your body such that his weapon stays on the same side of the center line as it began.
• Low Outside/Outside—Your hand starts from a low position on the opposite side of the center line (or it initially crosses the center line at the beginning of an upward arc before coming back to the center line to meet the weapon). Your opponent’s weapon comes from the opposite side of your center line. The outside (back) of your hand meets the outside of his appendage just as it is coming to the center line and then rides it back to your hand’s natural side, forcing your opponent’s weapon to cross the center line to miss you.
• High Inside/Inside—Your hand starts from a high position on the opposite side of your center line (or it initially crosses the center line at the beginning of a downward arc before meeting the weapon). Your opponent’s weapon starts from the same side of the center line. The inside of your hand comes down to meet the inside of his appendage, and then rides it back to your hand’s natural side such that your opponent’s weapon misses by staying on the same side of the center line as it began.
• High Inside/Outside—Your hand starts from a high position on the opposite side of your center line (or it initially crosses the center line at the beginning of a downward arc before meeting the weapon). Your opponent’s weapon starts from the opposite side of your center line. The inside of your hand meets the outside of his appendage as it reaches the center line, and then rides it back to your hand’s natural side, forcing his weapon to miss you by crossing the center line.
• High Outside/Inside— Your hand starts from a high position on the opposite side of your center line (or it initially crosses the center line at the beginning of a downward arc before meeting the weapon). Your opponent’s weapon (typically a leg) starts from the same side of the center line. The outside (back) of your hand arcs down to make contact with the inside of your opponent’s appendage just before it hits the center line and rides it back to your hand’s natural side of the body, making it miss you by keeping it on the same side of the center line as it began.
• High Outside/Outside—Your hand starts from a high position on the opposite side of your center line (or it initially crosses the center line at the beginning of a downward arc before meeting the weapon). Your opponent’s weapon (typically a leg) starts from the opposite side of the center line. The outside (back) of your hand meets the outside of the opponent’s appendage and rides it in to your hand’s opposite side of the center line, forcing his weapon to miss you by crossing the center line.

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